Anatomy of the perfect trench coat

The trench coat was designed to be practical, and every detail on a well-made one still has a job to do. Here is what to look for — and what we obsessed over when designing ours.

The cloth

A true trench is made from cotton gabardine: a tight, steep twill that sheds rain while still breathing. Ours is woven densely enough to be water-repellent without any plastic coating.

The details

• Storm flap — the extra layer across the shoulder that keeps rain out of the opening
• Back vent and yoke — let the coat move and drain water away
• Covered buckle — a belt that can be tied or buckled, never fussy
• Throat latch — closes the collar against the wind

The fit

Size so you can wear a fine knit underneath without the shoulders pulling. Belt it loosely at the waist, or let it hang open for an easier silhouette.